Wave Height Ano Speotral Transformation In The Shallow Waters Of Kerala Ooast And Their Preoiotion

Abstract

There are basically two methods for prediction of shallow water waves, viz. the graphical method and the numerical method. The numerical methods are being widely used, now—a—days, because they are fast, accurate and are

especially useful when the prediction over a large spatial frame is required. Practically little has been done on the development of numerical models for the prediction of height and spectral transformation of waves as applicable to our coasts. Synchronized deep and shallow water wave measurements which are essential for study of wave transformation are very much lacking for our coasts. Under these circumstances, a comprehensive study of the wave transformation in the shallow waters of our coast was felt very important and is undertaken in the present investigation.